Back to Port Orford

Up to Wyoming, Over to Utah, Into Idaho, and Across into Oregon…

The first night we stay in Rawlings, WY at Red Desert Rose Campground.

reddesertrose.com

This Mom and Pop RV Park operates like a hotel. Besides offering mints and dog treats upon registering, a courtesy vehicle is available to any guest in Class A or Class C recreational vehicles, or guests who prefer not to unhook their tows.


The second night we pull into Brigham City, Utah and stay at the Golden Spike RV Park.

To get here, we travel parallel to the Great Salt Lake and manage to sneak a peek of this famous body of water between the green foliage.


The third night we cross the border from Idaho into Oregon and stay in Vale, Oregon at Vale Trails RV Park.

google.com

This place is really out in the country!


Finally, we stay in this coiffed park-like setting at Bend/Sisters RV Park in Sisters, Oregon. It’s beautiful!

You place your garbage outside the RV and someone picks it up daily.

Wine and beer is delivered right to your door too, if you so desire.

A rodeo is taking place here over the weekend so we fall asleep to horses and bulls singing low-voiced lullabies.


Wednesday we are back in Port Orford…

Amen!

Back in Jernigan Land

And the U.S. of A. …

Monday, May 20th

Andy and I share a cab to Paddington Station and take the train to Heathrow where we both catch flights to the States. Andy flies for work and I return home.

Heathrow is a very impressive and efficient airport. After checking in and passing through the security checkpoint, you sit in a central terminal area and wait for your departure gate to be announced. Meanwhile, you have time to shop, snack, or sit down and eat. Announcements are posted an hour before departure. Once your gate is posted, you proceed as directed and present your boarding pass and passport and wait until your boarding group is called. Easy Peasey…

I arrive back in Jernigan Land at the Denver Airport around 5:30 PM. It’s snowing!


We stay in the Campbell Driveway Exclusive RV Resort for 4 more nights before moving to Cherry Creek State Park for another 7 nights.

Here are some pics of our visit with our grand-kiddos in Jernigan Land…


Mackenzie and Ruby playing in David’s apartment…


Jace and his school friend at the Rockies’ baseball game…

Jeff, his son Andy, and grandkids Jace and Jasley attended the game on May 25th. Jasley was part of an elementary school collective choir singing the Star Spangled Banner, opening the baseball game.


Backyard fun…


Cherry Creek State Park

Never a dull moment in Jernigan Land!

A Colossal Last Day

Filled with History, Song, and Pints

First stop… The British Museum

Located in the Bloomsbury area of London, the British Museum was the first public museum in the world. It was founded in 1753 upon the death of Sir Hans Sloane, a physician, naturalist, and collector from the North of Ireland. Over his lifetime, Sloane collected more than 71,000 objects which he wanted to be preserved intact after his death. He bequeathed his entire collection to King George II in exchange for a payment of £20,000 to his heirs.

The British Museum opened to the public in January of 1759, granting free entry to all “studious and curious persons.” (britishmuseum.org)

Museum Street…

We join the queue for the security checkpoint.

We pass through security and enter…

Wow! Here are the pics I took…


The Rosetta Stone

This stone slab is the only remaining fragment of a larger stone (stela), recording a decree on March 27, 196 BC regarding the decision of the Egyptian priests to establish a royal cult in return for Ptolemy’s concessions to the Egyptian temples. Ptolemy V Epiphanes was the boy-king ruler of Egypt. (plaque in museum)

The top of the decree was written in hieroglyphs. In the middle the same decree was written in Demotic, the everyday script of literate Egyptians, and at the bottom in Greek, the language used by the government. (plaque in museum)

Because these 3 versions of the decree are only slightly different from each other, the Rosetta Stone was the key to deciphering Egyptian hieroglyphics and Egyptian history.


This human-headed winged bull is one of a pair that originally stood at a gate of a citadel from the city and palace of Khorsabad, built for the Assyrian king Sargon II (721-705 BC).

The bull sculptures used their magic to protect the city and palace.


Sarcophagus

A stone coffin was reserved for burying royalty and the elite. The dead were buried facing east, towards the living who brought them offerings.


This is an example of a false door known as “Ka doors” common in mortuary temples and tombs of ancient Egypt. These doors allowed Ka, an element of the soul, to pass through them. The deceased could interact with the living world by passing through the door or receiving offerings through it.(ancientegyptonline.co.uk)


Statues of Sekhmet

Sekhmet is the Egyptian goddess of the sun, war, destruction, plagues, and healing. She is one of the oldest and most powerful deities. (egyptian-gods.org)


Sarcophagus of Merymose

Merymose was a “king’s son of Kush”, ruling the whole of conquered Nubia (then known as Wawat and Kush) on behalf of the pharaoh. Such officials were never true sons of the pharaoh but they were subservient to him alone and thus deserved being buried in a sarcophagus. (plaque in museum)


King Ramesses II

This is the upper part of a colossal seated statue, one of a pair flanking the entrance to the hypostyle hall in the king’s mortuary temple called the Ramesseum. (plaque in museum)

In architecture, a hypostyle hall means “under pillars” or an interior space whose roof rests on pillars or columns. (britannica.com)


Libation Bowl

Priests used bowls like this in temples for liquid offerings to the gods.

The goddess Hathor adorns the rim. Flat depictions of persons were usually in profile, but Hathor, the most universal goddess, was most often displayed in frontal view. Notice she has cow’s ears, but she could also be represented with horns or even as a cow. (plaque in museum)


Sarcophagus of the God’s Wife Ankhnesneferibra

The inscriptions on this coffin are an eclectic mix of religious texts to help the deceased attain the afterlife. There are excerpts from the Pyramid Texts, the Book of the Dead, magical and mythological texts, recitations from funerary rites, a sun hymn, and hourly rituals for a vigil over the deceased. (plaque in museum)

The Pyramid Texts are the oldest religious writings in the world and make up the principal funerary literature of ancient Egypt.

The Egyptian Book of the Dead is a collection of spells which enable the soul of the deceased to navigate the afterlife.(ancient.eu)


Colossal Scarab

This is one of the largest representations of scarab beetles to survive. The scarab represented Khepri, the form assumed by the sun-god at dawn.

The Egyptians noticed that scarab beetles hatch from buried dung balls as if by self-creation.

Similarly, the sun-god was also believed to be self-creating, renewing his powers each night before his rebirth at daybreak. (plaque in museum)


Forepart of a Colossal Chariot Horse from the Quadriga (about 350 BC)

The four-horse group, quadriga, positioned on the summit of the Mausoleum at Halikarnassos was a great feat of engineering. Each horse was carved in sections with a tail attached separately. Here the original bronze bridle and bit remain.

The Mausoleum, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, gave its name to all subsequent monumental tombs. (plaque in museum)


Wow! As a “studious and curious person” with free admission, you could visit the British Museum every weekend for a very long time before exhausting its permanent collection of some 8 million works documenting the story of human culture from its beginnings to the present!


Next stop… Westminster Abbey

We take a taxi from the British Museum to Westminster Abbey to attend Evensong.

The taxi drops us off and we walk to the famous church.


Westminster Abbey

Neither a cathedral nor a parish church, Westminster Abbey, or the Collegiate Church of St. Peter, Westminster (its proper title), is a “Royal Peculiar” under the jurisdiction of a Dean and Chapter, subject only to the Sovereign and not to any archbishop or bishop.

It has been the setting for every Coronation since 1066 and for numerous other royal occasions, including 16 royal weddings. Catherine Middleton and Prince William were married here in 2011.

Today it is still a church dedicated to regular worship. (westminster-abbey.org)


Evensong

Andy and I attend the 3:00 pm Evening Prayer service, the liturgy in the Anglican tradition celebrated in the late afternoon or evening. It is also known as Evensong, especially when most of the service is sung by a choir. (en.m.wikipedia.org)

I just walked down the aisle of historical coronations and the wedding venue of Kate and Will!


We leave Westminster Abbey behind and walk towards the Houses of Parliament.

Here’s a picture of Big Ben buried beneath all the scaffolding.


We take the tube to Bermondsey Street.

Yep, that’s the Shard in the background!


We stop for a pint at the Woolpack on Bermondsey Street.


We leave the Woolpack and pass by this interesting sculpture at Vinegar Yard on St. Thomas Street.


The Tube again…


We arrive back in Islington and have time for one last pint before I leave tomorrow.

The Camden Head beer garden is the same “last day” venue that Andy and his brothers, Brian and John, shared for Brian’s 40th birthday extravaganza last September.


What a great visit! Thank you, Andy for being the perfect host and son! I can’t wait to return!

Enlightenment

And Culture

We take the bus to St. Paul’s Cathedral again and walk across the Millenium Bridge to the south side of the River Thames.

The Millenium Bridge opened on June 10th 2000 and became the first new pedestrian crossing over the Thames for more than a century. It connects St. Paul’s Cathedral with the Tate Modern. (cityoflondon.gov.uk)


The Tate

Tate is a network of 4 art museums that houses the United Kingdom’s national collection of British, international, modern, and contemporary art. It is not a government institution, but it’s main sponsor is the UK Department for Digital, Culture, Media and Sport (DCMS). This department was responsible for bringing the 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games to London.

The original gallery was founded in 1897 as the National Gallery of British Art. In 1932 it was renamed the Tate Gallery. Henry Tate was a wealthy sugar merchant and philanthropist who donated his collection of 65 contemporary paintings to the government in 1889 on condition that they be displayed in a suitable gallery, for which he contributed £80,000 toward its  construction.

By 2000 the Tate Gallery evolved into 4 museums: Tate Britain situated in Millbank, home of the original National Gallery of British Art/Tate Gallery, Tate Modern in Bankside, Tate Liverpool founded in 1988, and Tate St. Ives in Cornwall founded in 1993. (en.m.wikipedia.org)


This marble bench with its simple but pithy message rests against a window overlooking the outside courtyard displaying Franz West’s punk sculptures.


Got couscous?

This display is created from cooked couscous, a coarse-ground durum wheat used in preparing pasta.


Brinco

Argentinian artist Judith Werthein designed a shoe, branded Brinco, to help migrants cross the border from Mexico to the United States. She distributed these gym shoes free of charge to people attempting to pass the border illegally in Tijuana.

At the same time, in San Diego, she sold the shoes as limited edition art objects for over $200 a pair, donating the money to a shelter helping migrants in need. (plaque on museum wall)

The shoes feature a flashlight, compass, and pockets for money and medicine. Printed on a removable insole is a map of the border around Tijuana. The sneakers also contain an image of Saint Toribio Romo, the patron saint of Mexican migrants.

The Brinco trainers were produced cheaply in China where labor is cheap and often poorly regulated. Werthein hopes to draw attention to how easily goods move between countries, compared with the strict regulations around the movement of people. (plaque on museum wall)


My attempt at an artistic shot… The Shard through a pattern of stacked masonry blocks in front of the window…

The same view…

Did I forget to mention that there is no admission fee to visit the Tate Modern?


Heading toward The National Gallery, we take the Blackfriars Bridge across the Thames.

Do you recognize the 3 famous landmarks in the photos below?


Victoria Embankment

We walk along the Victoria Embankment, a section of the larger Thames Embankment, a road and river-walk along the north bank of the Thames.

We pass Temple Avenue, a main legal district of London and home to many barristers’ chambers and solicitors’ offices.

Temple is the name for the area in the vicinity of Temple Church, built by the Knights Templar and consecrated in 1185. (en.m.wikipedia.org)


A City of London Dragon boundary mark…


Embankment Cafe

flickr.com courtesy of John King

We stop for fish and chips and try not to share our meal with the pigeons.


Victoria Embankment Gardens

This popular public park is part of a chain of open spaces along the Embankment, designed by Sir Joseph Bazelgette and opened in 1865. (westminster.gov.uk)

The historical Watergate was built in 1626 as an entrance to the Thames River for the Duke of Buckingham. The gate is still in its original position, but since its creation the Thames water line has moved and the gate is now some 328 feet (100 meters) from the water. (westminster.gov.uk)


We head to Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery via Villiers Street. We pass by Gordon’s Wine Bar where Andy and his brother John took their oldest brother, Brian, for his 40th birthday.

Gordon’s Wine Bar

 tripadvisor.com

Established in 1890, Gordon’s is the oldest wine bar in London. As you enter the bar you find yourself in a room with old wooden walls covered in historical newspaper cuttings and memorabilia faded with age. (gordonswinebar.com)

gordonswinebar.com

Enter the cellar and you need to stoop to make your way to your candlelit table.

gordonswinebar.com

gordonswinebar.com

gordonswinebar.com

You can also sit outside in Watergate Walk.

This bar is situated in Kipling House, home to Samuel Pepys in the 1680s and in 1820 occupied by Minier & Fair, a firm of seedsmen who used it as a warehouse. In 1864 the river was embanked and the warehouse became landlocked. It was subsequently turned into a living accommodation and wine bar in 1890 where Rudyard Kipling (1865-1936) lived as a tenant and wrote his first novel The Light That Failed in 1891. (gordonswinebar.com)

Tennyson (1809-1892) and G. K. Chesterton (1874-1936) also penned literary works at a table in the candlelit cave-like cellar, perhaps sipping a glass of wine or two.

Alfred Tennyson was Poet Laureate of Great Britain and Ireland during much of Queen Victoria’s reign. Two of his famous poems are ‘The Charge of the Light Brigade’ and ‘Ulysses’. (en.m.wikipedia.org)

G. K. Chesterton is well known for his Father Brown character, the fictional priest-detective. Perhaps you are familiar with the BBC series of the same name broadcast on PBS. I am a fan of this show.

Last summer I helped weed the Pacific High School Library collection in Port Orford, OR. Look at this gem that I found:


Next stop… Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery

The National Gallery

visitlondon.com

Founded in 1824, this art museum on Trafalgar Square houses a collection of over 2300 paintings dating from the mid-13th century to 1900.

The Gallery is an exempt charity and a non-departmental public body of the Department for Culture, Media, and Sport. In other words, this collection belongs to the government on behalf of the British people as an institution of further and higher education. The bottom line is this… admission to the main collection is free of charge. (nationalgallery.org.uk)

Andy and I head to the Sorolla Exhibition which is housed in the Sainsbury Wing.

architecturemagazine.com

The Sorolla Exhibition is entitled, Sorolla: Spanish Master of Light, and is the first UK exhibition of this Spanish impressionist in over a century.

nationalgallery.org.uk

Known for his iridescent canvases, this is a rare opportunity to see the most complete exhibition of Joaquin of Sorolla y Bastida’s (1863-1923) paintings outside of Spain.

From the vivid seascapes, garden views, and bather scenes for which he is most renowned, to portraits, landscapes and genre scenes of Spanish life, the exhibition features 58 works spanning Sorolla’s career. (nationalgallery.org.uk)

I am so mesmerized by the art, that I don’t take any pictures. The artist’s ability to paint sunlight amazes me!

Here are some highlights (hehe) from the exhibition courtesy of Lizzie Thomson from Go London, an online newsletter, posted on March 19, 2019.

Ms. Thomson explains that

Sorolla’s career was a tale of two halves: his earlier works depict themes of social consciousness, whereas the turn of the century saw him turn to less serious subject matter, instead using the beach and his family as inspiration. (standard.co.uk)

Strolling along the Seashore (1909)…

standard.co.uk

Sorolla painted his wife and daughter Matia on a windy beach in Valencia.

Sad Inheritance (1899)

standard.co.uk 

Sorolla made history with this 1899 piece, as it was the first time an artist had painted children with polio. In it he captures a number of children bathing in the Mediterranean Sea under the supervision of a monk. The polio epidemic that struck Valencia in the the late 19th century means that a few of the boys are crippled due to the condition. Sad Inheritance marked a turning point in Sorolla’s career and instantly gave him more recognition as an artist, but despite the painting’s success, he had already turned his sights to less intense topics. This was the last time his art focused on social issues for its subject matter. (standard.co.uk)

My Wife and Daughters in the Garden (1910)

standard.co.uk

Sorolla is often inspired by his own family. Here he painted his wife Clotilde and daughters Maria and Elena.

Sewing the Sail (1896)

standard.co.uk

This work is part of his series of Spanish folkloric art. Notice how extensively Sorolla captured the sunlight coming through the railings and plants and onto the material and people. (standard.co.uk)

Running Along the Beach (1908)

the guardian.com

Sorolla is noted for his dazzling seascapes of Valencia beaches. Notice how the sun glistens on the skin of these exuberant children and casts shadows in the folds of the girls’ dresses. (artandantiquesmag.com)


Homeward bound… and a pint or two

We head back home and stop for a pint at the Earl of Essex pub in Islington, Andy’s favorite local hangout, where we meet up with one of his mates, Mike, a lovely chap.

google maps 

The Earl of Essex was founded in 2012 as Islington’s first brewpub with an ever-changing list of local and international beers. (earlofessex.net)

earlofessex.net

londonist.com

The first day I arrived, Andy and I drank Aperol Spritzes in the beer garden.

londonist.com

earlofessex.net


On our way back to Upper Street, I find this sweet sidestreet…


We still have an heirloom tomato from Borough Market so we pick up some meats and cheese from Sainsbury’s Local (a mini-version of the supermarket with the same name) and prepare a charcuterie plate.

Another great day in London!

Resting On My Laurels… (hehe)

A Lazy Ass Day in Islington

Andy has scheduled the week off from work while I visit him in London. A few work-related issues, however, need attending to on Friday… No problemo with me… I sleep in, read my book, and spend time with Dewey in Andy’s flat.


Andy lives in a flat on Upper Street above a restaurant near St. Mary’s Church.

en.m.wikipedia.org

It’s quite lovely…

The steps are covered with non-slip liners for Dewey who is recuperating from back leg surgery (both legs).

The tiny cupboard below houses a washing machine… really!

The hallway leads into a large bright sitting room with tall windows.


Appropriately, I am reading a mystery book by British author, Anthony Horowitz, Magpie Murders.

As a school librarian I am very familiar with the author’s young adult Alex Rider and Power of Five series, but it wasn’t until Tom, a friend and volunteer from Thousand Palms Oasis, suggested a binge-worthy Netflix British murder mystery series (Midsomer Murders) to watch that I found out about Horowitz’s talents as journalist, screenwriter, and adult “who-done” it books.

 anthonyhorowitz.com

After I return to the States and continue reading this novel, I recognize places and street names referred to in the book and understand some subtle references made by the author.


Late afternoon, we walk up and down Upper Street as I search for souvenirs for the grandkids in Jernigan Land.

Andy takes me to After Noah, an eclectic curiosity shop filled with toys, homewares, and restored furniture.

coolplaces.co.uk


How do gasoline prices here compare with the U.S.? I have no clue…


The spire in the background is St. Mary’s Church where Andy takes Dewey for his morning and evening walks.

We actually spotted the steeple from the open observation deck, level 72, from the Shard yesterday. I took a picture but you couldn’t see it.

According to en.m.wikipedia.org, a church has stood on this site since the 12th century. The original church was rebuilt in 1483, 1754, and again in 1956.

In the 18th century the Islington Church Act of 1750 was passed by Parliament to authorize appointed trustees to pull down the old church and steeple and rebuild the same as, recorded in the Act’s preamble, the church “is now in a very ruinous condition”. Fees charged for funerals, bell-ringing, and the use of coffin cloths were to be used for rebuilding. The trustees were also authorized to raise up to £7000 by selling annuities. (Campbell, S. Allen Jr.,  History of St. Mary Islington.  St. Mary Islington , 2007.)

stmaryislington.org


We pass by Islington’s City Hall building.


Andy does a bit of shopping at his favorite store in Angel Central, Muji.


We end our lazy day at Franco Manca, the popular sourdough pizza restaurant chain.


francomanca.com

francomanca.com

francomanca.com


We share an appetizer.

And we each order our own pizza. Delicious! So delicious that I forget to take a picture…

I borrow this one from the Internet:

tripadvisor.com

Yummy and fun!


And finally, I leave you with Some Itsy Bitsy Bits About Islington…

During medieval times Islington was just one of many small manors in the area. (en.m.wikipedia.org)

A manor was an agricultural estate composed of tracts of land, a village whose inhabitants worked that land, and a house where the owner of the land lived. (thoughtco.com)

Variant spellings of what is now ‘Islington’ first appear in 1005 when the Saxons named the village ‘Giseldone’ then later, in 1062, ‘Gislandune’. The name comes from the Old English meaning Gisla’s hill, Gisla from a personal name and “dun” meaning ‘hill’ or ‘down’. (en.m.wikipedia.org)

Further variants include Ysendon, Isendune, Yseldon, and Eyeseldon possibly meaning ‘hill of iron’ or ‘lower fort’.  From 1559 onward, on the Calendar of Proceedings in Chancery in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, ‘Islington’ became the preferred spelling. (Campbell, S. Allen Jr., History of St. Mary Islington. St. Mary Islington , 2007.)

These are the only clues as to when this first town north of London was established.

rightmove.co.uk

Upper Street used to be called High Street and before that it was named High Road. Similarly, Essex Street used to be called Lower Street, Lower Road, and Low Road.

These 2 streets, Upper (High) and Essex (Low) converge at Islington Green, now a small triangular green space that was once where farmers had grazing rights. Today there is a statue of Sir Hugh Myddelton at this junction. Myddleton was responsible for designing the New River, an artificial waterway or canal that supplied fresh drinking water to London from the River Lea and an assortment of springs. It opened in 1613. (en.m.wikipedia.org)

britishlistedbuildings.co.uk

Perhaps you can guess where this is going… High Road, Low Road, Islington’s location just north of London leading further north to the greater part of England and beyond to Scotland? It was in Islington, so the story goes, where one had to make a decision that led to the song, You take the high road and I’ll take the low road, and I’ll be in Scotland a’fore you!” (Campbell, S. Allen Jr., History of St. Mary Islington. St. Mary Islington , 2007.)

streetmap.co.uk

Upper Street is the main shopping district of Islington and part of the A1 road, the longest numbered road in the UK at 410 miles. The A1 connects London, the capital of England, to Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland.

Another unique feature of Upper Street is that it is one of the few streets in London to have a high pavement or sidewalk, as we call it. Constructed in the 1860s, the purpose of the high pavement was to protect pedestrians from being splashed by the large number of animals using the road to reach the Royal Agricultural Hall. The Hall was home to the Smithfield Club which held annual exhibitions of livestock, agricultural produce, and agricultural implements from 1862 until 1938. (en.m.wikipedia.org)

commons.m.wikimedia.org